View Full Version : Gold Crown I
04-04-2003, 09:32 PM
Hello, as you can tell, I am new here. I've been reading the posts and learning a lot. I have been continually impressed by the quality and the amount of thought that goes into so many of the posts and responses.
I have just about finished building a house and one of the major pre-requisites was room for a nine-foot pool table. So, I am now looking at purchasing a table. In particular I am looking at a Gold Crown I, the AR-6100 model. I have been emailed a number of pictures of the table and it looks like it is in excellent condition. I am going to see it (and play on it) in the next couple of days. I was hoping I could get some advise on what to look for. I know I need to look at the slate from underneath and watch how the balls roll. Other than that, aside from looking at general condition, I am pretty much at a loss.
Oh yea, the asking price is $1500. Any help would be appreciated.
04-05-2003, 12:47 AM
I love gold crown 1's they were the first table I began playing on. Regarding the price, if it's in excellent condition and you have the space I would probably go for it.
I payed $1200 for an old Brunswick Viscount but I would much rather have had the GC1! Good luck with it!
04-05-2003, 07:38 AM
I would try and make sure all or most of the hardware is with the table. If the cloth is still on the bed I would pay with a check in case the slate is damamaged under the bed cloth. I would pay special attention to the condition of the rails as this table is getting to the age where the rubber could have gone bad...the price is very reasonalble for a good conditioned GCI. Some people think this is the best table Brunswick has made of the GC series, very heavy duty construction.
04-05-2003, 08:10 AM
Welcome Todd. That sounds like an amazingly good deal. I dont know that much about all of the tables. Where did you find such a good deal?
04-05-2003, 09:04 AM
Thanks for the info and the welcome. The table is fully set up with the cloth still on. The owner told me that he has always had it serviced by a Brunswick dealer; who, by the way, made an offer (a low one) for the table when it came on the market.
To check the rubber, will I be able to see enough just by hitting a bunch of bank shots or should I do something else?
My local newspaper has a website that they share with a number of other area papers. On this site they have a classified section that can search a fairly large area. I entered a search for "pool table" over a 250 mile radius, this table turned out to be about 100 miles from my house.
04-05-2003, 12:42 PM
Todd...You can pretty much tell the condition of the rails by shooting some bank shots straight up and down the table, on several places, both longways and crossways. Use the CB by itself, and shoot with a very firm stroke. The CB should go twice across, no matter which way you shoot (long or cross)...this is hitting at least four cushions with a fairly hard stroke. What will really tell the tale is when you take the table apart and/or set it back up. Look for separations on the rubber cushion from the wood back rail. If you find any, these will need to be repaired before you recover the table (any table mechanic can do this easily with some glue). Otherwise you will start seeing "dead" spots on the rails, where the ball won't rebound properly. Also, the quality of the seams between the TOP edges of the slates is pretty important. Usually looking underneath the table/slate, is just to check out the condition of the slate frames, and the body construction of the table frame. Because of the tremendous weight and quality construction of the old GC1's, this is most often still in great shape. Get a product called Liquid Dowels to put between the seams on the top of the slate. This prevents slate separation quite effectively.
I believe you can get this product in NY, from Victor Conte.
Are you taking down the table yourself? If so you will get a ton of info about the table as you disassemble it. Write the guy a check, so if there are unidentified problems, that you don't see until you take it down, you can negotiate the price. Definitely be concerned about all or most (90%) of the hardware (screws and such) is intact, with the table. If you are setting up the table in your own house, I would recommend finding a good table mechanic to DO it, or at least work with you. Lots less headaches, and you will get a quality job that will last a long time.
04-05-2003, 12:43 PM
The price is right. Along with shooting the cueball against them, you can check the rails by going around the table and check that the rubber is not broken away from the backing. Just use your thumb and press where the rubber meets the wood and go around the table checking every inch or so. You may not be able to reuse the old cloth, I would not anyway. Gold Crowns have a lot of parts and some little things may be missing. Check around the plastic skirting where it comes together at the corners. There should be little nuts and bolts holding them together. Half of the tables you see they are missing, it does not really matter though. See if the bridge holders are still there under the sides. They were a factory accessory made for the Gold Crown. Feel the ball box (If it has a ball return) and see if it is cracked or broken. This often happens from people putting their feet on them. Check the pockets for their condition they often become damaged and can cost quite a bit to replace. If it has ball returns, get under the table and check them out. See what kind of balls you are getting with it, a good set will be over a $100.00 if they need to be replaced. In general look over the whole table for small damage. Most of the old Gold Crowns were at one time or another in a pool room and may show it. All this is mainly to bargain the price. Even if the rails are bad it is not all that much to replace them and scratches and dings can be repaired. You can even paint the table after you get it. Mine was white and I painted it a charcoal color to match the fire place. When it was white it stuck out like a sore thumb and it was all you could see in the room, after I painted it, it blended right in. They are really good tables and will hold their value. You can move it yourself, it is not that hard to disassemble. Once you get it home you may try to put it back together or pay somebody to do it. Either way you will save yourself some money.
04-05-2003, 09:01 PM
I just got back from looking at the table. I was very pleasantly surprised at the condition. There are no major dings or scratches. The pockets are all in excellent condition, the plastic skirt is on and completely intact, as are the bridge holders. The ball return is also in perfect shape and somehow seems gentler than on some newer tables I have played on. The chrome could use some polish, but the table seemed to be in as good condition as can be expected for something made in the early '60s. My only concern is the cushions, the bounce wasn't quite what I've seen on some of the newer GC tables at my local pool hall. But even so, the difference was so marginal that I might have imagined it.
Needless to say, I bought it. I am VERY excited to get it home. I had been planning to have a professional both disassemble and assemble it, but the comments I've read are causing me to reconsider the disassembly.
I still have one question. I measured the thickness of the slate at the pockets and it seemed to be almost two inches thick. This seemed much thicker than I expected from what I have read. Was I measuring the frame along with the slate? If so, that seems too thin. I'm confused.
Thanks for all the help,
04-05-2003, 09:21 PM
Todd...It is likely that you were measuring the slate frame along with the slate. The slate itself, is probably an inch to 1 1/4 inches thick. Connelly Utimate tables have 2 inch thick slate, which is one reason they play quite well. However, they also cost over $10K too! Sounds like the GC1 you got is in great condition. There should be NO problem with you disassembling it. Here's some tips: bring ziplock bags for all the screws and bolts. Keep them separate (slate screws,frame bolts, nuts, etc.) and put all the same kinds of screws in one bag. Mark each one, so they are easy to tell what goes to what, when it is time to reassemble the table. Mark the slates with a felt marker so you make sure they go back on the table exactly the same way they come off (head end, middle section, foot end). Mark the pieces of the frame and the pockets the same way. This makes it a lot easier to put the table back up in the exact same way it was when you bought it. The slates are VERY heavy. Instead of busting your ass, try to bring 2-3 other people with you. Four people can easily manage a 3x4' section of slate (about 300+ lbs). Go rent some packing blankets from Uhaul or Ryder, and wrap up the slates. They can lay flat in the bed of a truck easily, one on top of another. I DO recommend hiring a table mechanic to put the table back up. I have done many myself, but the experts are so much better at it. They are much easier to take apart, than they are to put back together correctly (like most things! LOL). Have fun! Like Popcorn said...you got a good table, and when you're done, you'll have a fine table that will last for many more years of play!
04-05-2003, 09:39 PM
Thanks Scott, that sounds like good advise.
My only worry is that there are two flight of stairs that the table needs to come down. Has anyone ever tried wrapping the sections of slate in packing blankets and bungy cording it to a hand cart and easing the hand cart down the stairs with someone underneath for extra support and balance. This is just an idea I got from watching moving men with appliances. I don't want to do anything that might damage the slate.
If you think the cushions are slower now is the time to replace them. Very likely they are old. A table with slow cushions is not fun to play on. You can devise a quick ramp by making a V out of wood or angle iron, plastic etc. Here is the golf version --http://www.leaderboard.com/glossary_stimpmeter
Keep one end the same height and distance and measure speed on your table and the pool rooms table. Cloth used and conditions will effect speed also, so keep that in mind.
Now is the time but beware of buying just any cushions. Brunswick Super Speed is probably on newer tables. It's worth knowing before you take it apart.
04-05-2003, 10:02 PM
Todd...that's why I suggested 4 people. With 4 you can carry each piece down both sets of stairs with no problems.
Problem with the hand cart is that the slate is wide. Might work though! I would stand the piece on end, and use all four of you to carry each one down the stairs. You can set it down if you get tired or start to lose your grip (wear gloves).
04-06-2003, 09:55 AM
I'm going to give it a try next weekend. I'll tell you how it goes.
Again, thanks for all the help.
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