View Full Version : pool tables

04-25-2003, 07:28 AM
can anyone steer me in the right direction as to what kind of table to buy? I'm stuck between an olhausen or american heritage

04-25-2003, 07:36 AM
I've heard good things for both. I personally like Olhausen. Whatever you decide, if it doesn't come with it, pay the extra hundred for Simonis cloth.

04-25-2003, 09:29 AM
I've been a player for 20+ years and I work as a Service Manager for a billiards company, so I thought I'd put my 2 cents worth in here.

First of all, whichever brand of table you buy, follow this advice:

1. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, PURCHASE A TABLE THAT IS TOO LARGE FOR THE AREA WHERE IT WILL BE PLACED!!! I can't stress that enough. Make sure that your pool table has about 60 inches (5 ft) from the wall (or any other obstruction) to the inside of each rail.
2. Do not purchase a "low-end" table from ANY manufacturer that has pressboard or fiberboard rails. These rails can only be recovered a finite number of times. After a couple of recovers the rails will turn to sawdust when you pull the staples out.
3. Do not get purchase a table w/ unframed slate or slate under 7/8 of an inch in thickness. If possible, go with doweled slate.
4. If you are going for a larger table (8 or 9 footer) try to avoid the "spindly" type legs found on alot of furniture style tables in favor or larger, more substantial legs. This will take alot of vibration out of your table.
5. BUY AMERICAN. Lots of chinese knock-offs are available online, but they are pure $hit.

With these things in mind, any number of manufacturers can accomodate your needs including Olhausen, American Heritage, AMF, Brunswick, and Connelly.

For my money, I would scour the paper and try to find an older table that is built well. You can find tables like older AE Schmidt's for about 500 dollars. Most of these tables have 1 1/4" doweled slate, and T-Rails (these rails are bolted directly into the slate from the sides not through the slate from the top). Some of them play like a dream for half the money (after paying for a move and recover).

Finally, no matter what table you buy, make sure that the installation crew is experienced and knowledgeable. The world's best table will still play like crap if not installed properly.

Hope this helps.

04-25-2003, 09:38 AM
Looks like shoop gave you some pretty good advice.I would take it if I was you.

04-25-2003, 03:16 PM

I'm about to look around for a table, and I've already made a copy of your advice.

One more question, though. Can cold weather harm a table, and are any types of tables more susceptible to problems than others? The table will go into a garage I'm converting up in the Catskills. When I'm down in the city, the table may well be sitting in a 10- to 20-below deep freeze.

Can this cause problems? Wouldn't be cheap to keep the place heated 24/7.

04-25-2003, 03:30 PM
Presidential Billiards makes a really great table too.

04-25-2003, 06:52 PM
Pool tables, like almost anything made of wood, react poorly to extreme temperatures. Going from extreme cold in the winter, to warm weather in the spring and fall in an environment like what you described would not be good at all. The cabinet will expand and contract with this type of temperature change. Since wood grain is uneven, this expansion and contraction will cause the cabinet to twist which results in a host of bad things like busted slate seams, etc.

Also in a climate like you're talking about you will expect to spend a couple of hundred bucks every year or so on new rail rubber.

04-25-2003, 07:16 PM

Thanks for the info. At that potential cost, guess I will consider keeping the room heated when I'm away. Maybe 40-45 degrees would be enough to stave off trouble?