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Kato
07-22-2003, 07:17 AM
I've seen this term several times on the board but I don't remember any instructions on how to do it.

So, how do you do it?

Kato

Fred Agnir
07-22-2003, 08:30 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Kato:</font><hr> I've seen this term several times on the board but I don't remember any instructions on how to do it.

So, how do you do it?
<hr /></blockquote>Piece of white paper. Rub quickly.

I used to use a piece of leather. Then I got a lathe and tried to use the leather on the stick as it spun. The years of chalk that got embedded in the leather and probably some leather dye transferred to the shaft rather quickly.

Back to the white paper.

Fred

Kato
07-22-2003, 08:48 AM
Sounds mighty simple. Thanks for the tip Fred.

Kato

WaltVA
07-22-2003, 09:09 AM
If your doing it by hand, undyed leather, brown kraft paper, back of some #1000 wetordry, white paper, $100 bill, or inside of a matchbook will work OK as long as it's clean and dry. The main thing is to rub fast enough and with enough pressure to generate HEAT. I use a piece of undyed leather scrap I got from a shoe repair shop.

I agree with Fred - on a lathe,leather isn't the best thing to use. I usually use the reverse side of some #1000 grit or finer sandpaper.

Walt in VA

Kato
07-22-2003, 09:19 AM
That's what the cue guy said. I was just confused. Why buy sand paper just to use the other side of it?

Is that grit sand paper available at Home Depot?

Kato~~~talkin' cues. /ccboard/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Ward
07-22-2003, 09:30 AM
Kato

Go to car body shop, they will have 2000 grit if you want.

Later

WaltVA
07-22-2003, 10:13 AM
Kato - Don't know about Home Depot, but any auto parts store (Advance, NAPA, Carquest, etc.) will have #1000, #1500, and sometimes #2000 grit paper in their paint/body work aisle. You can buy it by the sheet and cut it up in case-size pieces. I keep a dozen-size box of Master chalk in my case and store a couple pieces of each grit inside the top of the box.

Sandpaper of any grit will remove small amounts of wood - burnishing does not remove any material, just polishes the wood dead smooth. I've found the natural oils from your hands will get polished in and help to seal the shaft without the sticky feel of waxes and oils.

Walt in VA

Kato
07-22-2003, 10:16 AM
Thanks Walt, good advice and good to know.

Kato

Paul_Mon
07-23-2003, 05:47 AM
I went to a craft shop and the lady gave me some scrap pieces of tanned leather that are 3/16" thick. I cut two pieces that are about 3" x 2". These were then soaked with water and wrapped around a 1/2" diameter dowel and secured with a couple of tywraps. I wrapped one with the fuzzy side of the leather in towards the dowel and the other with the fuzzy side out. After they completely dried they held their shape. You can now take either of these pieces and wrap it around the end of the cue shaft and stroke rapidly up and down, this is burnishing. If you have a lathe just wrap the leather around the shaft and spin the shaft, this is also burnishing. You should generate heat using either method. When burnishing the side of a newly installed tip I add some saliva to the tip only, by moistening my finger and applying the saliva to the side of the tip. When burnishing the shaft I will sometimes place a piece of waxed paper inside the leather burnishing sleeve. When enough heat is generated by stroking or spinning some of the wax is deposited on to the wood making it nice and smooth.

Paul Mon

BillPorter
07-23-2003, 05:55 AM
I've used leather, matchbook covers, paper towels, and paper money ($100 bills work best!), but I my favorite is brown paper from a grocery store bag.

bott1637
07-24-2003, 04:05 PM
How often does one burnish their cue. Just when it isn't slick any more...everytime you play?

HalSmith
07-25-2003, 05:08 AM
Kato, you may want to look into putting silicone on your shaft. After reading a bunch of post here on the subject a few months ago I gave it a try. Worked Great! I have had it done for over 2 months and it's still slick. Its worth looking into.---Smitty