View Full Version : Cue Maintience
09-03-2003, 02:00 AM
I got a new cue(Lucasi) about 3 weeks ago. Well a friend of mine at work JUST got the same cue. When I did a few practice strokes with it I noticed a DEFINTELY difference. (Smooth as hell). Only then did I realize the my own had lost that smoothness. Upon examination I also noticed that my cue has a few (3 to be exact)"DINGS" on the shaft, reallu more like impressions. So that leads me to my two questions.
1) how do I get that smoothness back?
2) what can I do about the dings?
09-03-2003, 03:38 AM
First, the best way to get rid of the dings is not to get them, pay attention and don't ding the shaft. Don't use the side of the cue to clear the table and don't lean the cue against a table or the wall. Some of the best advice I've gotten is if your cue is out of the case it should be in 1 of 2 places, laying flat on a table (while you rack) or in your hand. Now as far as making the shaft smooth, you should use some 2000 grit sand paper and lightly sand it (that's 2,000, not 200, not 20) Then your best bet is to keep your hands clean, wash them a few times a night while playing and wipe the cue down with a soft clothe before you put it away. If the cue has never been sanded you may want to use 1,000 or 1,200 grit first, it may still have some finish on it. Hope this Freds. JB
09-07-2003, 11:10 AM
i disagree with the sand paper part. I dont think a cue should ever be "sanded". As for the dings i use the neck of a beer bottle and rub it back and forth over the ding. Done at a fast pace the heat from the friction actually raises the dings then i would use Qsmooth micro film.
09-07-2003, 11:31 AM
<blockquote><font class="small">Quote Fasteddy7:</font><hr> i disagree with the sand paper part. I dont think a cue should ever be "sanded". As for the dings i use the neck of a beer bottle and rub it back and forth over the ding. Done at a fast pace the heat from the friction actually raises the dings then i would use Qsmooth micro film. <hr /></blockquote>
A thread on shaft sanding:
I usually use a drop of water on a q-tip or a steam iron on a wet paper towel to raise dings.
09-07-2003, 05:35 PM
I don't recommend sand paper either, except in the case of a production cue that's new. And you claim you use Qsmooth micro film, well I have no idea what that is, but I'll bet it's sand paper. There is nothing wrong with sandpaper, it will take the shaft down some, so if you don't want a thinner shaft never use it, but again in the case of a production cue chances are the shaft is plenty big 13+ and could use some taking down. There isn't a cue maker alive who doesn't use sand paper on a shaft, and on a lathe it's much more dangerous then by hand. If you do try to sand out dings you'll end up with flat spots, so don't use it on just one spot or 1 area. Sand paper doesn't kill people, people kill people. JB
I use denatured alcohol to keep the shaft clean. Use very sparingly with a soft cloth. When the shaft is clean, wet a cue tip and leave it on the ding, repeat as necessary. If it's real light, it may only take once or twice.
Buy a peice of 1500 and 2000 grit, wet or dry sand paper.(Auto Paint & Body Supplies is one source) Fold and tear or cut into smaller sections. Use 1500 first, evenly, then follow up with 2000. It will be smooth, save those used peices and use them again if necessary. Like if you take out some dings again. Alcohol or even lighter fluid will keep the shaft clean.
09-07-2003, 10:08 PM
Well, here's my shaft maintenance routine. Every so often, depending on my usage, I take a damp cloth and white powdered sink cleanser and scub my shaft. (With heavy usage, I may only do this about once every three months.)The cleanser takes all the chalk dust, oils, and grime out of the shaft. I then take a clean damp cloth and wipe the shaft clean. Now I stand the shaft verticle and allow it to completely dry. When dry, I inspect the shaft for dings. If I find any dings in the shaft, I dampen a small piece of toilet paper and place it over the ding. I allow it to dry, and then inspect the ding to see if it has been swelled back out. This normally takes care of them for me. The shaft will be very clean now, but the grain will be raised. I then take an undyed piece of leather, (the back side of a belt works fine), and buff the shaft with it. It's not necessary to rub hard, but fast. This will seal the pores and return a gloss to the shaft. After the shaft has been thoroughly buffed, I then take a cream colored carnuba wax and polish the shaft. This further seals the pores, adds a level of protection to the shaft and makes it slick, so that it slides easily through my bridge. To clean my ferrule, I use a toothbrush and smoker's toothpaste. I use a minimum amount of moisture on my towels and have been maintaining my shafts this way for several years now, and have had no ill effects. I can't tell that I've had any noticable effect on shaft diameter, even though I suspect that the abrasiveness of the sink cleanser may take some very minute amount of surface material off. I suggested this method to someone else and they commented that they couldn't remove dings after they waxed the shaft. Should this occur, you'll have to use the sink cleanser to remove the wax again. This works well for me. My shafts are clean, smooth, and slick. Hope this helps. /ccboard/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0 Copyright © 2015 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.