If the owner of a hot dog stand implies his hot dogs are worth $50 and sells them for that price, I don't have to buy it. It does, however bother me that he is implying his hot dogs are worth $50 and accepting $50 from people who believe him. No hot dog is worth $50 and I believe peole who sell them for that amount should be exposed for their dishonesty. Billiard university doesn't exist. There is a website called www.billiarduniversity.com with a pool skill assessment test and little else. Take the test, upload the video to you tube, the Doc will confirm the score is correct and award a corresponding degree from "Billiard University; a non-entity. What is Billiard University? For $203.50 the test taker receives a diploma on parchment paper that costs $25 to print. Someone is paid to watch the video. Someone is paid to do the small amount of clerical work and ship and handle it. I suspect the Doc and his partner simply pocket the rest. Obviously, no one is stupid enough to believe believe Billiard University is a 4 year accredited university, but they must believe it is something. They must believe it is some pool version of a university and must believe it is of stature and because of this, receiving a diploma from this university is of significance. Otherwise, they wouldn't be shelling out $203.50 for a diploma. Billiard university simply does not exist as an entity and I believe that those who sell diplomas for 203.50 from this non-entity should ne exposed for their dishonesty.
Dude, there is no pool version of a university. Who in their right mind would think that exists, when there are no classes, and a degree is $200? They charge 500 bucks for world series tickets too. And yet, it doesn't seem to be a world event. Same thing with the super bowl, no bowls!
Ok here iz what i am thinking. Firstly i am sorry that elroy flunked Dr Dave's billiards university.
I am thinking elroy shood try a snooker cue, say 9.75mm (for pool).
Me myself i am going to try a 13mm pool cue (for english billiards). Alltho i will probly kut this down to 11mm.
I see that u kan get say 4 or 6 or 12 sneaky pete Eliminators (13.3mm) for about $34 eech (or $28, or $21)(plus postage to Ozz) on ebay.
Theze hav a woodtowood joint (that shits all over every other woodtowood joint). Theze must be the best midjointed maple cues ever made.
Seeing az u karnt get Dufferin cues no more, then Eliminators are the next best bet. Best cues in the world. How in hell do pool players pay $100 or $1000 for cues with shit joints, when u kan pay $21 dollars for class.
Me myself most mornings down here in Ozz i watch usofa gridiron (some live) and or usofa baseball while drinking Tun imported usofa beer while knocking balls in with my imported usofa made in china Eliminator cue.
Its good to be alive.
I give up! Nevertheless, I stick around here and talk about something else maybe.
Praps Patrick might join here too. Hey, u aint Patrick are u?
Anyhow, back to topic -- i hav ordered some Eliminator sneaky petes from theusofa, surely the best woodtowood joint out there (allbeit with a small stainless pin and a small bit of brass) -- so lite, so neat, so economical -- compared to the massive big klunky, World War 1 surplus, over-engineered sad excuses for joints that i see on the web -- yuckkkkky.
But its a pity that no-one puts their best maple in sneaky petes. Anyhow i will report back.
Anyhow, put something up on here and i will az uzual giv it my negativ contrarian badmouthing reply.
Hey Mac, u think that sneaky is better than this McDermott cue for $45? Can also get em with no wrap for $39, and they hit surprisingly well. http://www.ozonebilliards.com/lucky-cues-l9.html
That McDermott iz a nice cue. I like the idea of not having any splicing, and a midjoint (ie a real joint, not a 3/4 poofta snooker joint).
However my preference iz a machine splice (ie 4 point clubstyle cue) rather than zero splice.
And i prefer a maplemaple (woodwood) (mid) joints. The $45 McDermott iz plastik to plastik i guess.
I know u kan buy proper wooden joints (expensive), with large threaded wooden pins etc. But i dont mind some (hidden) plastick pins or stainless pins and a small bit of female brass. But most woodtowood features large bits of plastic etc, not even hidden.
If a plastik pin etc haz a SG of 1.7, and the amount of plastik iz 4 times the size of metal bits, then u havnt saved anything kompared to say brass (SG 8). In fakt the plastik bits that i see look to be much more than 4 times.
So, Eliminator style small stainless pins glued in wood one end and skrewing into a small bit of female brass the other end iz pretty much az minimalist az u will ever find. The best joint in the world (praps even better than wooden pins etc).
Any big wt (or change of density etc) at midpoint must (badly) affekt the hit. The Eliminator peeple are not too worryd that the occassional joint might split. Whereaz McDermott & Co are terryfyd even if n when the cue iz only $45.
Catch 22. McDermott sell a say $300 shaft. They dont want it to split. So, they uze a massive big klunky, World War 1 surplus, over-engineered joint -- and now their shaft plays worse than a $30 shaft.
And of course i dont like the look (nor play i reckon) of all thems rings and inlays and wraps and rubber bumpers on butts . Whats wrong with a plain simple 4pt machine splice -- and surely it hits better. I unskrew bumpers first thing.
And i notice that many obvious (non-hidden) fat plastik or giant metal joints are now called sneaky petes -- NNOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I own a pechauer pro series sneaky Pete. I paid $270 for it. If I was going to pay that much for quality there was no way I was going to pay for decoration. As it turned out the quality of the wood is so fine that it's a decoration in itself. I love the way it plays also.
A genuine quality cue iz worth every penny. But one kan get 12 Eliminators for $270, alltho u probly aint got much choice, all will be 13mm (but u hav choice of 18oz or 19 or 20 or 21).
I will be sanding my Eliminators down to 12mm and 11mm and 10mm and 9mm (for english billiards on 12ft table).
Some of my mates are getting (excellent) chineze and thailand snooker cues for $100 inklooding mini-butt and maxi-extn and cuecase and inklooding postage.
I suppoze that the quality of the wood in the butt aint important. But a strong stiff lite shaft-wood iz paramount. I wonder whether cuesmiths aktually measure shaft-maple and rank it (and uze the worst for sneaky petes).
All else being equal -- i would uze a vibration test to rank shafts. If same size shafts the higher frequency = bestest.
Snooker cues nowadays seem to hav lots of splices and different colors (wood), ie in the butts. I suppoze that the more splices then the less bending (warping) over time. Splices uzually look nice, but must be expensiv.
And, like i sayd, handsplices are overated hitwize, machine splices are probly just az good.
Idea. What if the butt half (of the pool cue) woz pure maple, praps with maple splices (if worryd about warpage). And, the dezired wt woz simply achieved by having a bigger skrew-in (permanent) metal rod (or adjustable if u want). Or, duz heavy buttwood really help the hit, kompared to maple with wt.