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Thread: 3pce 4pce 5pce cues.

  1. #11
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    Yes i uzed it for a while 3yr ago -- and i intend to uze it (english billiards) this (2013) season.
    I measured it again.
    Lengths === 11" tip + 23-3/4" mid + 22" butt + (1" skrew wt) = 4'-10" total (+ extn = 16").
    Weights = 2.41oz tip + 8.53oz mid + 11.21oz + (3.94oz skrew) = 26.09oz total.

    The tip woz initially 16" i think (and 9.5mm i think) -- but what with experimenting and kutting it iz now 11" (and 10.0mm).
    The cue initially (when 16") made a very loud annoying TONKA sound every shot -- now (now 11") it still duzz, but it aint so loud.

    Initially (when 16" and 9.5mm) the cuesmith woz amazed when he tested the cue -- he found that the cue (uzing sidespin) had zero squerv (ie koz the qball swerved a lot) -- this woz counterintuitiv.
    Nowadays (11" and 10mm) the cue squirts more and swervs less and hencely duznt enjoy or suffer zero squerv.
    mac.
    Last edited by cushioncrawler; 08-15-2013 at 03:53 AM.

  2. #12
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    I reckon that any heavy joint lowers cuepower a bit (due to dampening of kompressional vibrations), and i reckon that at some locations a heavy joint lowers cuepower a lot (due to dampening of bending vibrations).
    (The annoying TONKA sound must kum from the kompression bizness or less likely from the bending bizness).

    If an S-bend iz the major natural bending vibration of a cue then any joint at the 2 nodal points shood not affekt cuepower az much az a joint lokated tween the nodal points (or lokated near the tip end or near the butt end). Theze (S-bend) nodal points might be say 1/10th L (6") from the tip and say 6/10ths L (36") from tip. A joint say 3/10ths L (18") from the tip might rob most S-power.
    An ordinary banana-bend would hav 2 nodal points too -- and praps a joint at 3/10ths L might rob most banana-power allso.

    I reckon that nobody wants poor cuepower, but i am thinking that an elcheapo cue with a heavy joint near 18" might hav more swerv and hencely better (if that iz what u want) squerv etc than a muecci or predator etc.
    mac.
    Last edited by cushioncrawler; 08-15-2013 at 03:49 AM.

  3. #13
    Interesting, mac. I think I get it now. Youre intentionally increasing squirt, purely for the sake of decreasing swerve(and the net squerve effect)? I assume this cue squirts more than a typical hi squirt cue. So how did that monster 26 oz. cue play for ya?

  4. #14
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    Yes adding the heavy joint at 16" (while leeving the qtip az iz at 9.6mm) might hav inkreeced squirt a little (or praps zero) while inkreecing swerv (due to less cuepower) and u get less (or iz it more) squerv. But, az i sayd, this kombo woz bad news -- too much swerv (for a 12' table).

    The prezent 11" and 10mm arrangement haz a workable amount of cuepower but the squirt iz a bit too much. Praps i shood thin it down.

    Anyhow i played badly and lost the other nite -- it woznt the TONKA'S fault. The trouble iz my stance. It feels good standing face-on like the top snooker players. But my stroke iz best suited to standing very very side-on -- like i did in the 80's. Next week i will stand side-on -- and i might or might not be uzing the TONKA, dont kare.
    mac.

  5. #15
    Ah well, we all have our bad days. Let me know how the monster does next outing!

  6. #16
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    I also saw those in eBay. Since 3 piece pool cue that comes with either the smart extender or the long extension is quite popular. But be careful to get the extension that works with your cue.

  7. #17
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    The only 3pce 4pce and 5pce pool cues that I hav seen are all non custom-made and hav got heavy brass-joints (ie will play krapp).
    Some makes hav a regular length maple shaft, but the butt kums in multi-pieces (ie not a real 3pce at all).
    Others (mainly snooker) are called 3pce but are merely a 3/4jointed cue with a mini-extn (for helping reeech on a 12' table).
    Nah, what I am talking about iz a real 3pce -- eech pce 20" (but not krappy ones with brass-joints or stalin-joints).
    mac.

  8. #18
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    Hi,
    yeah well said-: Use thing just an experiment. According to me putting every thing for an experiment give us the reason to be sure that whether the thing which we are going to be use will beneficial or not. Coming on the topic: Yeah A brass joint might give slightly less deflection and slightly more squirt ,tested by pure-squirt tests.

  9. #19
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    For sure a heavy brass joint makes heavy echoes that rob power, and thusly must giv more squirt.
    But, beleev it or knot, a big brass joint kan rob so much power that u get less squerv (or more squerv, u know what I meen). For example when using left-english and kutting the objektball to the right the qball curves more than u think and u overcut the shot. If the range to the objektball iz long'nuff, and if u jackup enuff, and if your bridge-length iz short'nuff, its eezy to get a neutral squerv (if the brass joint iz heavy'nuff). Here i am basing this stuff on one of my cues that haz a heavy brass joint down near the 1/4point of the cue.

    I hear that u get an echo whenever the material changes, if the two materials hav a different speed of sound (Shamos).
    This sounds pretty good thinking to me. However i doubt that the reverse holds, ie that if two materials hav the same speed of sound then there will be little or no echo. But, if so, then it might be ok to hav a heavy material (ie high SG) in a joint if its modulus of elasticity woz proportionately high (ie proportionately meening compared to maple). In which case brass must be toxik.

    I thort that me iz the only human that actually duzz pure-squirt tests.
    A first-rate pure-squirt test iz where u hav the qball suspended (uzing say fishing line).
    A second-rate test iz with the qball on the edge of a precipice (and landing in a sandbox).
    Ordinary pure-squirt tests on a table with cue horizontal are I think third-rate (but better than nothing).
    Any qball reaction with the bed hurts the accuracy of a pure-squirt test (i reckon).
    mac.
    Last edited by cushioncrawler; 01-07-2014 at 09:41 PM.

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