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Thread: Just got banned over at AZ!

  1. #21
    Alright then, I would like to try one. I happen to need an extra cue for my room, a cheapie. Can you post a link, mac? I like sneaky petes too, I have a meucci and a predator.... but not as my main cue.

  2. #22
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    I am getting my latest lot of Eliminators from thebebop on ebay. If u google u kan pick an individual cue (on ebay) with the wt u prefer (18oz or pick 19 or 20 or 21) -- about $50 eech inklooding free postage i think. Or if u get 4 cues u uzually get one of eech wt. Or u kan get 6 cues, or even 12 cues.

    I ordered 12 -- postage to here iz US$128 gulp, $11 per cue, plus $22 per, makes $33 per.
    I will be sanding them down to different sizes, 12mm 11mm 10.5mm 10mm 9.5mm 9mm.
    And i will be able to mix shafts with different wt butts. The wrong shafts uzually fit pretty good (but might be one thou out), and wrong shafts sometimes missalign (praps 1mm, pretty good). But the korrekt shaft on the korrekt butt iz (will be) perfikt (size-wize) and vizually (grain-wize).

    I think they are made by cuetec, praps in theusofa (dunno). I koodnt find any other site selling Eliminators. And i koodnt find any similar cue or similar joint (i mean exaktly similar mapletomaple, not just size-wize) with a different badge.

    3yr or 4yr ago i bort 4 Eliminators, but i think it woz from a different shop in a different state in the usofa. I experimented with theze 4 -- kut them down gradually in length and in dia, and modyfyd the butts too -- and now they are frankensteins monsters and too short etc. But along the way they hit better than any other cue. I remember setting skrewing records that i will never equal with my regular snooker cues, and hopefully the new Eliminators will be the equal.

    One of theze skrewing tests iz where i hit the objektball halfball with softskrew, and see what sort of angle i kan get. The Eliminators (or at least one of them) gave an unbeleevable angle. I think this woz with one of my Triumph tips -- i dont know what tips they kum with, praps Triangle, or praps LePro (dunno). I might leev the original tips on, but uzually (without proper lathes etc) i expekt they wont survive the surgery.

    Anyhow, i will report back in a month or so.
    mac.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bambu View Post
    Alright then, I would like to try one. I happen to need an extra cue for my room, a cheapie. Can you post a link, mac? I like sneaky petes too, I have a meucci and a predator.... but not as my main cue.
    Are thems proper sneaky petes, ie where (when new at least) u karnt see the skrew-joint.

    Nowadays u see pix of plastiktoplastik joints and they (the chineze?) call them sneaky petes.
    And, i see that the chineze are fond of calling 3/4jointed cues "2pce" cues -- whereaz "2pce" haz allways been rezerved for midjointed cues. Bloody chineze.

    Anyhow, i allways reckoned that Dufferins made the best maple cues -- for many years my main cue woz a 1pce with simple machine splice butt (4 points) -- u know, the classic yellowish shaft with the classic brown hardwood butt (bewdyfull). Gone now (but praps u kan get very junky copys with skrew tips). Eliminators are the closest thing (and i expekt that theze 2pce cues will play like a 1pce Dufferin).
    mac.

    Did i ever mention that i won a long distance skrewing kontest with my 18oz 10.5mm 1pce 4point Dufferin. The other players with their snooker cues koodnt beleev it. They koodnt even get halfway to my superskrew. That Dufferin cost me $32 back in 1985. Pity i frankensteined it -- shortened it, and added wt in the butt (pity).
    Last edited by cushioncrawler; 10-17-2013 at 04:19 PM.

  4. #24
    The sneakys I have look like wood to wood joints, like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eliminator-S...ht_1278wt_1164 As you said, you cant see the joint, only the screw threads. Actually, my predator joint sucks. Its one of those quick release pins that come loose. (I will never buy a non threaded joint again.) Is that the eliminator the cue you mean? I like dufferins too, still have a few left. Looks like you can still buy more from ozone here or at their site: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dufferin-One...ht_1411wt_1402

  5. #25
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    Yes that iz the Eliminator. Look at that there petite stainless pin, glued direktly into wood. And it threads into a petite brass female sort of pipe in the shaft, very lite.

    That there Dufferin 1pce pool cue iz similar to the oldendays Dufferin snooker/billiards cues, but not exaktly. The pool verzion iz 12.5mm with i think a big long plastik ferrule. The oldendays Dufferin snooker cues were about 10mm with a short black fibre ferrule. Nowadays the only Dufferin snooker style cues (ie about 10mm) that i kan find are ash (not maple), with big brass midjoints (ie just like other klunky makes).

    Big klunky heavy massive brass etc joints are ok if they are a 3/4joint. Koz 3/4joints are at the sweet spot, where they dont affekt hit etc much at all. But a midjoint needstabe very lite, like i sayd, koz at midcue the extra wt affekts hit.

    I dont know much about quick release joints -- but i thort that they all had at least a bit of thread.
    I know they are heavy, praps heavyer than ordinary joints (not good for a midjoint, ok for a 3/4joint).
    And praps u karnt do them up very very tite. I think we need to do joints up very very tite (u need to oil them, else u karnt) (this inkloods all joint, mid and 3/4).
    mac.

  6. #26
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    Another thing. Re low squirt shafts. U kan in effekt lessen the squerv of a cue if u add wt to the midjoint (I havnt aktually dunn this, nor the tests, but i am sure i am korrekt, i hav dunn similar tests).

    Obviously adding wt at the midjoint duznt much affekt squirt, ie the initial angle the qball pushes out/offline (when uzing english), koz this squirt angle mostly depends on the wt etc of the first 8" of shaft. But the extra wt will affekt squerv.

    Now, i aint saying that we kood improov a cue by adding wt at midjoint. However, any change kan/might/must improov something (but at the expense of other things).

    But players need to understand that a cue with less power (ie with a worse hit) will hav "less" squerv.
    Seeing az squerv kan be pozitiv or negativ (ie left of aimline or right of aimline) the adjektiv "less" iz sort of meaningless, but u know what i mean.

    So, muecci and predator kan make a superlow-squirt shaft just by adding lots of wt to the midjoint. And such a cue would of course play badly (for most players). What players shood look for iz low-squirt (if thats what u want) kombined with hi-power (which we all want). I think most players dont realize this.

    In other words, if u took wt out of a midjoint (if u kood), u would make the squerv worse. This would seem to be counterproduktiv, but it aint. Power iz paramount, squerv iz sekondary.

    So, we shood all be uzing 1pce cues. But, if u want a 2pce cue, Eliminator wins (u wont get closer to a 1pce cue).
    mac.
    Last edited by cushioncrawler; 10-18-2013 at 04:45 PM.

  7. #27
    Yes, I remember what you were saying about squerve and the mid joint weight. Never tried anything like that, but I do like low squirt shafts so I use a Z-2. Not sure about the power, never had a cue with what seemed like low power(except at bars of course).

  8. #28
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    POWER and HIT are not straightforward concepts.
    U kood say that a cue with good power will send the ball upndown the table further. But i hav some old thin whippy cues that do this very well, yet u karnt play powerskrews with them. So, i am thinking that the best test of good power iz the ability (kompared to other cues) to giv powerskrew.

    There are two ways to measure/test powerskrew. Both probly giv the same rezults (for ranking cues).
    U kan place the qball klose to the objektball.
    U kan place the qball a long way from the objektball.
    Not forgetting that the qtip iz a major faktor here az uzual.

    I reckon that, if simply hitting a ball upndown the table, then a cue karnt be too stiff.
    But for powerskrew a very stiff cue will rank badly. And a very heavy stiff cue worse still (for most players).
    Still thinking.
    mac.

  9. #29
    I have a thin, whippy cue in my Z-2. Its only 11.75. Draws well because it allows me to hit lower on the ball, I think lol. Weight matters too for draw, where a lighter cue can draw better because its moving slightly faster. And also the wrist. I can get more draw with a wrist flick, adds more power.

  10. #30
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    Yes 11.75mm iz thick by billiards/snooker cue standards -- but it mainly depends on how much wood u hav back 8" and 18" -- a parallel taper 11.75mm kan be just az whippy (or az stiff) az a 10mm with a conical taper. For example thems 13mm Eliminators hav about the same mm at the midjoint az one of my 8.9mm billiards/snooker cues.

    And yes, lighter kan giv better skrew -- and shorter kan giv better skrew (az long az the cue aint too short for the player's physique).
    mac.

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