Pix shows standard Eliminator butt colors (and some of my other machine spliced cues inklooding a dufferin). Colors are....
Rare brown (tropical hardwood).
Illegal brown (logged at night -- Asia).
Endangered brown (Africa).
Corrupt brown (Americas -- favorit of politicians).
Extinct brown (not found anywhere).
Last edited by cushioncrawler; 12-05-2013 at 07:03 PM.
BILLIARDS IZ OVER FOR 2013.
My team lost 6/0 in the final of the Melbourne billiards Wednesday nite. Me myself I woz ahead with 20seconds to go in my 80minute game (at No2) with james, but james hit the lead on the bell. The other team didn't hav their No1 player koz he woz playing snooker for Ozz in Latvia. My team didn't hav our No5 koz he woz playing snooker for Indonesia in Myanmar. James missed the billiards final in 2012 koz he woz snookering for Ozz in Bulgaria, but hiz Ozz ranking slipped this year.
Anyhow I uzed the 9.0mm Eliminator shaft that I made the nite before. I had kut 2-7/8" off a 13.2mm shaft, and thinned it down to 9.0mm uzing a bottle-taper -- stuck on an elk tip (haz zero ferrule, i uze the bakelite backing off a triumph tip) -- and I skrewed a 4" mini-butt onto the butt (this makes the cue 1-1/8" longer = 59-1/8")(and adds 1.70oz).
Shortening the (29") shaft by 2-7/8" in effect inkreeced the cue's joint dia from 0.850" to 0.889" -- what I meen iz, the dia of the butt 2-7/8" down from the joint (ie 29" from the new qtip) iz 0.889".
If I asked Mr Eliminator to interrupt hiz production-line to make me a cue with a thicker than standard joint he would tell me to jump in the rake -- but here I hav outsmarted him.
Re adding the mini-butt, there iznt any drastic need, the shaft plays allmost az well with an ordinary butt and no mini-butt (L = 55-1/8").
Anyhow, the shortened 9.0mm shaft with bottle-taper and mini-butt iz the nuts. I kan stop right here and feel happy with my decision to buy the 12 Eliminators. Other players will hav their expensive big-name handmade cues -- and mac will be using a kut-down Eliminator sneaky-pete pool cue ($22 plus $11 postage -- beware of cheap imitations).
2014 IZ GOING TO BE HUGE.
Last edited by cushioncrawler; 12-06-2013 at 03:04 PM.
NICE TO SEE COLIN COLENSO BACK IN TOWN.
I remember Colin on my home table showing me hiz method of testing a cue's pivot. Colin woz playing straight pots into a corner pocket. What I especially remember woz that, every shot, the red (the objektball) ended up on the floor -- ie leeving a ballmark on my nice new hardwood floor. What with Colin being a champion shotputter.
Anyhow what I luvv about my bottle-taper shortened Eliminator shaft iz that it iz haz a very uzer-friendly backhandpivot and likewize fronthandpivot. I luvv uzing pivot to modyfy my angles -- and a bit of outside-English helps the shot (talking about pots here, not inoffs, not cannons).
Every time I run down next door to my brother's wood lathe and modyfy a shaft, the first thing I do iz test it for skrews and then for pivots -- and eech time, I think of Colin's pivot tests. And I remember playing English-billiards league with Colin's dad -- hope he iz well.
Colin played in the 3 richest pool tourneys of all time. Colin recommends that u test a table to see what bridge length iz needed for your favourit english for your favourit pace for your favourit range for your favourit cue.
A new (slippery) bedkloth needs a shorter bridge L (or at least it needs some sort of compensation).
Praps Colin iz happy to change hiz bridge L from hiz standard 12" (??) down to praps 10" or up to 14" (or duzz Colin mostly compensate??).
But rather than changing bridge L -- do any players change their cue to suite the table?????
In theory one kood hav 13 Eliminators spanning the full range from 11.00mm to 14.00mm in 0.25mm increments -- and one of theze hazta suit your favourit L. I think Colin had a HongKong-made 12.75mm cue (I woz amazed at how well it played with 2-1/15" balls).
Last edited by cushioncrawler; 12-10-2013 at 01:11 AM.
Nice, Mac! Thanks for posting!
Finally got my new eliminator, thanks Mac. I have to agree, great cue for $35. I still like my Lucky McDermott for around the same price, but great find, thanks!
Just one cue????
What wt (18oz or 19oz or 20oz or 21oz)?? (wts aint az marked I find).
Iz shaft grain narrow or wide?? (wide iz better I reckon).
Straight grain or ?? (straight iz better).
If u are lucky it duznt hav a wt-bolt (just pure wood). Praps one kan order an Eliminator with zero wt-bolt (dunno), at least in the 18oz or 19oz sizes.
I make them into a 3pce koz they are too whippy for me -- midjoint iz too thin (and I uze 2-1/15" balls, must be worse for 2-1/4").
Originally I made them thicker (stiffer) by cutting 4" off the tip and adding 4" to the butt (uzing a minibutt extn)(this moovs the joint 4" up).
But now (for my 3pce cues) I cut 9" off the tip, much much stiffer (koz this moovs the joint 9" up).
I kood simply uze a 9" minibutt, but i went one step further -- i kut 9" off the butt allso -- and then I made an 20" buttpce -- this gave me three 20" pieces for eezy toting.
I sayd that wide grain iz better, but it aint, koz midjoints are too thin.
And, koz midjoints are too thin, everyone adores narrow grain. Narrow grain iz heavy and stiffer (for the same dia).
But, if midjoints were thicker (say 15/16"), then I am sure that everyone would adore wide grain (like me).
Last edited by cushioncrawler; 02-10-2014 at 02:52 PM.
I wanted to check them out first, so I only ordered one. Its also tough to beat that Lucky McDermott on price, so I prefer to mix what I have on my wall. Mine is 18 oz. with no weight bolt. I would take a pic but my camera started acting up on me. I would say all the grain is on the wide side. To me the hit feels solid, though I am used to a whippy Z-2 anyway.