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Thread: Wood vs PVC vs Steel collar joint - sneaky pete

  1. #1

    Wood vs PVC vs Steel collar joint - sneaky pete

    Most sneaky pete series cues do not have a Collar;

    I see many "Opinions" on the feel of this;
    However; does anyone have evidence that a Collar makes an beneficial accuracy difference;
    or is it just a change in irrelevant vibration translation when keeping the same combination of Ferrel + Tip.

    What are the benefits or failures when NOT having a Collar; versus having a steel, bone, harder wood, or Plastic Collar (implex).
    Or does this collar only serve to preserve the Joint section from 'Chipping' the wood at the connection.
    For instance "Using a steel collar for your breaking cue" vs breaking with a wood to wood joint.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Ballarat Australia
    Energy losses reduce break-speed. Joints create bad echoes. Bad echoes inkreec energy losses. Heavyer joints giv bigger echoes.
    A 1-pce cue might hit harder than a 3/4-jointed cue. A 3/4-jointed cue might hit harder than a 2-pce cue (ie midjointed).

    However, all poolcues are too thin in the middle. I suggest u get a (sneaky pete) cue made for u, 15/16" at the joint, wood'to'wood joint with a 5/16" 18tpi stainless (titanium would be better) pin. Uze this cue for playing and for breaking.

    Iz different things for different people. A heavy steel collar might aktually help your accuracy for some shots.
    I uze a 3-pce sneakypete poolcue that i made and modyfyd for English Billiards on a 12' table. This iz very fat. The 1st joint iz a standard midjoint (yes that iz one fat cue). I turned the tip down from 13mm to 11mm, and i hav zero ferrule.

    If u want to minimize losses, but want a collar, then u shood uze the lightest but hardest collar material u kan find.
    Its not much good to uze plastik if the plastik collar iz huge. U might az well uze steel.
    In theory (my theory) bone and tooth and tusk and horn and hoof are hopelessly bad, eg ivory.
    Here I am still talking about minimizing energy loss. If u giv priority to feel or something then that iz a different story.
    I would like someone to bite the bullet and uze magnesium for a pin or collar.
    Nextly kums titanium. Then aluminium. And then stainless. Forget brass or bronze.

    This iz interesting. I don't think harder wood would be much good. Az I sayd, best not to hav a joint at all. But, if u do want a joint, would a harder hardwood collar be better than maple'to'maple. I don't think so. Still talking bout energy loss here.

    Re energy loss of different materials uzed for joints and collars, az far az I kan tell the energy loss iz strongly related to the acoustic transmission efficiency of that material, and to the thermal conduction propertys. For most materials both of these giv the same comparison and ranking.
    More recently I found that ultrasound indexes uzed by hospital technicians are a potentially good guide. And, bonus, u kan tell the sex of your cue.
    Last edited by cushioncrawler; 03-26-2014 at 04:26 AM.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by cushioncrawler View Post

    IN SHORT::

    In your Opinion...Wood on Wood is Best with Zero Ferrule, and a Fat Joint Pin.....If u want to minimize losses, but want a collar, then you should use the lightest but hardest collar material you can find. (titanium, being the first choice)

    Wood on Wood is most accurate; reduce the vibration translation with bigger/fatter Joint Pins.

    Nominal to accuracy; Basically No one has ever produced an accurate testing, or enforced a testing standard and chart for the piece parts of cues sold (AND SHAME ON THESE VENDORS AND THEIR CLAIMS).

    ANOTHER Discussion
    forum question possibly: Wrapping vs. Non-Wrapping
    would a dampening system drilled into the "Butt" end, and wrapping produce better vibration reduction then a no wrap cue? (for instance the x-shox lucasi hybrid butt end of their cue makes claims to reduce 27% but they basically take a rubber grip and place 'dampening stuff/glue' underneath it).

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    CA, USA
    Most of the time, this part is made of Grade A Hard Rock Maple, though it is possible to find pool cues that use fiberglass or even graphite.

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